Christmas in Prague is back with a bang. The Czech capital’s Gothic architecture, heartwarming traditions and fondness for a festive pint make it one of the prettiest spots to wander through seasonally-trimmed chalets filled with festive gifts, or fill up on sausages and mulled wine. Watch out though: many of its more widely touted festive fancies are aimed squarely at tourists. To eat and drink your way through the season like a true Czech, you’ll need to hunt a little harder. So, here’s how to get the most out of the city during the magical winter season.
Fancy the splendour but sick of the cold? Then check out our year-round guides to the best things to do in Prague; the best restaurants in Prague; and the best beer experiences in Prague.
Prague's Old Town Square is the city's Christmas hub / Image: Adobe Stock
Are there any winter festivals? For those who want a more literal take on the naughty/nice checklist that precedes Santa’s annual rounds, Prague’s traditional Saint Nicholas Day celebrations will do the trick. The night before the event – which falls on 5 December – the city’s kids descend on the Old Town Square to be questioned (in a fun way) by adults dressed as angels, devils and old Saint Nick himself. Good children get sweets; bad children, traditionally, would get potatoes or coal. Tasty.
Trdelník is the traditional seasonal spit cake in these parts / Image: Adobe Stock
What to eat: “Trdelník is a sweet pastry dough cooked over charcoal that’s common in the city, but it’s mainly eaten by tourists,” explains Petr Kunc, head chef of Michelin-approved restaurant Salabka. If you want to eat like a local, however, then aim for something a little crunchier. “Three weeks before Christmas, every family in the Czech Republic bakes their own Christmas cookies, and you can also find them in a lot of pastry shops around Prague. Try them from Cukrář Skála in the centre of the city.”