In 1865, the city’s abattoirs and livestock markets were moved to La Villette, with high-ceilinged buildings and large open concourses constructed to furnish the booming meat trade. A century later, the slaughterhouses closed and major regeneration began, aiming to infuse this district with cultural attractions impressive enough to pull people to its north-eastern climes.
Safe to say – it has succeeded. A mix of world-class music and arts venues (often in impressive former abattoir halls), green open spaces, and, of course, casual everyday bustle, this vibrant area offers surprises at every turn. Blending a kaleidoscope of architectural styles, from Grande Halle de la Villette to Le Trabendo, it is concrete (and stainless steel and glass) proof that uniformity, no matter how beautiful, can be boring.
Although this stretch of the 19th arrondissement could be billed as a nocturnal playground, it’s a mistake to skip its daytime pursuits, especially in summer, when you can swim in Canal de l’Ourcq and rent canoes all the way to Pantin, just outside the peripherique. Follow our guide so you don’t miss a thing.
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Munching
Waterside watering holes / Image: © Paname Brewing Company
La Villette’s best dining spots border the canal, so expect a side order of waterside views. Craft beer heads will adore Paname Brewing Company, but it’s a hit with foodies too thanks to a carefully curated taphouse menu: think super-thin pizzas, tacos and salads.
Le Pavillon de Canaux is a co-working space, café and bar in the former canal inspector’s digs and needless to say, it’s got the vistas to match. Tuck into gourmet veggie dishes at wallet-friendly prices – the €19 prix fixe lunch features dishes like burrata, melon and fried shiso leaves and summer veg shakshuka.
Paris has upped its pizza game in recent years and Simonetta led the charge early with its Neopolitan-style charred, doughy delights. Best enjoyed under the green-and-white striped terrace awning. Negroni optional.
Browsing
104 is the place for culture vultures / Image: Quentin Chevrier
Find events space 104 in a vast building that used to house the city’s municipal undertakers. These days it’s bursting with life – artist residents of all disciplines make their mark through both free and ticketed shows, workshops and screenings. Café Caché is on hand for refuelling with healthy snacks and veggie fare, and the bookshop is not to be missed.
The 24,000 m2 retail and leisure space Vill’Up hosts indie brands alongside big household names, and there are also six restaurants, 16-screen Pathé multiplex and a free-fall simulator to entertain. Perfect for rainy day reconnaissance.
