A guide to Italy’s best regional dishes (and where to eat them)

Ossobuco in Bergamo

Ossobuco with polenta is a Bergamo staple / Image: Adobe Stock

The small city of Bergamo is also located in the region of Lombardy, just over 30 miles from Milan. As such, the cities share many specialties, including a focus on locally-grown rice and pricey meats such as veal. While ossobuco is also synonymous with Milan (typically served with a saffron-hued risotto alla Milanese), the dish is also popular in Bergamo, where it’s most commonly served with polenta – another specialty of the town and its surrounding area. Literally meaning “bone with a hole”, ossobuco is cut from the veal shank, slow-braised with a pearl of soft bone marrow acting as the jewel in the dish’s proverbial crown.

Where to eat it:

Da Franco
Close to the cathedral and main square, Piazza Vecchia, this cosy restaurant specialises in Bergamo cuisine. Polenta is a particular focus here – it’s slapped onto many dishes, including (of course) the rich, slow-cooked ossobuco.
Via Bartolomeo Colleoni, 8, Bergamo
dafrancobergamo.it

Baretto di San Vigilio
more reminiscent of a French bistro than an Italian trattoria, Baretto di San Vigilio’s menu features ossobuco served with creamy mashed potato, plus a zesty gremolata which cuts through the richness of the braised veal shank.
Via al Castello, 1, Bergamo
barettosanvigilio.it

Mortadella in Bologna

Mortadella and crescentine fritte at Polpette e Crescentine

The region of Emilia-Romagna is home to a staggering 44 products with Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status under European law. These include the likes of Parmigiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar di Modena and prosciutto di Parma. At the heart of the region affectionally known as the ‘Food Valley’, Bologna’s most best known PGI product is mortadella. Often (and erroneously!) described as luncheon meat, it’s a large sausage of ground pork marbled with cubes of sweet pork fat, peppercorns and pistachio in many instances. It’s generally sliced thin and best enjoyed in sandwiches, or eaten on its own.

Where to eat it:

Pigro
A renowned Bologna sandwich shop, Pigro has just three things on its menu: beer, wine and mortadella sandwiches. The latter aren’t customisable, but considering the quality of both the mortadella and the bread, there’s absolutely no need for additional toppings.
Via de’ Pignattari, 1b, Bologna
facebook.com/pigro.pigro

Polpette e Crescentine
In the Mercato delle Erbe, Polpette e Crescentine specialises in meatballs and crescentine fritte – a light, pillowy puff of fried dough, which pairs perfectly with traditional mortadella, the light crunch of the latter a dreamy contrast to the softness of the meat.
Via S. Gervasio, 3, Bologna
polpetteecrescentine.com

Enoteca Storica Faccioli
Alongside a good selection of natty bottles, this wine bar excels with its charcuterie plates. Local artisan cheeses and cured meats are showcased, including mortadella from Pasquini – one of the area’s last fully artisanal producers.
Via Altabella, 15/B, Bologna
enotecastoricafaccioli.it

‘Nduja in Calabria

A slab of spicy 'nduja with sourdough / Image: Adobe Stock

Synonymous with Calabria, ‘nduja is a spicy, spreadable salami made with a high concentration of Calabrian chillies. It’s widely believed that ‘nduja was first produced in the small village of Spilinga, where an official ‘Nduja Festival takes place each August, offering a chance to taste the piquant produce in various ways, accompanied by folk music and local entertainment. Like mortadella in Bologna, ‘nduja isn’t a dish in its own right – per se – but it’s used in a wide variety of dishes given its versatility and unique flavour, which brings plenty of depth to pasta dishes as well as typically being spread on bread and served with cheeses.

Where to eat it:

Abbruzzino
A high-end restaurant in Catanzaro, Ristorante Abbruzzino showcases fine dining spins on traditional Calabrian dishes. The pasta with sea urchins, cooked in ‘nduja water, is a must try.
Via Fiume Savuto, Cava-Cuculera Nobile, Catanzaro
abbruzzino.it

Dattilo
A Michelin-starred restaurant on a biodynamic farm, Dattilo is run by chef Caterina Ceraudo – who also tends to the on-site vineyard, protecting endangered Calabrian grape varieties from extinction. As for the food, the menu features refined dishes such as tiny buttons of pasta filled with ‘nduja and creamy almonds, all lulling in a bath of potato broth.
Farm Ceraudo, Strongoli, Crotone
dattilo.it

Ligurian focaccia in Genoa

Textbook focaccia at Antico Forno della Casana / Image: Alamy

Although a flat bread called ‘panis focacius’ was enjoyed in Ancient Rome, today focaccia is widely associated with the region of Liguria, and specifically the city of Genoa. While various iterations of the recipe are prepared throughout Italy, focaccia Genoese is the most popular, studded with finger sized holes and brushed with olive oil before its final rise. Some consider focaccia to be a type of pizza, which is a fair comparison, but it’s left to rise after being flattened, whereas pizza is often baked immediately. In Genoa, the bread is also typically eaten for breakfast, customarily dipped in milk or cappuccino.

Where to eat it:

Panifico Mario
Near Brignole train station, Panifico Mario is a historic, family-run bakery showcasing traditional focaccia that’s baked throughout the day.
Via S. Vincenzo, 61r, Genova
panificiomario.it

Antico Forno della Casana
This Genovese bakery is one of the city’s most famous, baking focaccia from opening time until close. They use organic whole grains, stone ground flours and mother yeast to produce classic slabs of the good stuff, and also hawk other local specialties such as Ligurian vegetable pies and almond panettone.
Vico della Casana 17R, Genova
anticofornodellacasanagenova.myadj.it

Il Focaccino
A modern focacceria, Il Focaccino offers Ligurian focaccia embellished with toppings such as aubergine and Parmigiano cheese, sausage and leek, or figs and salami. Classic focaccia is also served alongside focaccia di Recco stuffed with cheese.
Via Trebisonda, 23, Genova
facebook.com/focaccinogenova/

Veal Milanese in Milan

Veal getting the Milanese treatment at Ratanà

Although Milan has become a dining destination only in relatively recent years, the veal Milanese is believed to date back to the Roman heyday of the 1st century BC. (Some Italians also suggest the Austrian wiener schnitzel is derived from the classic Milanese cutlet.) While olive oil rules the south, clarified butter is used heavily in Lombardy cuisine, in which the best veal Milanese are often fried. The veal is generally pounded but kept slightly thicker than schnitzel and cooked on the bone, producing a succulent cutlet that needs little more than a pinch of salt and absolutely no sauce to accompany.

Where to eat it:

Ratanà
At this modern restaurant, chef Cesare Battisti serves thick, bone-in veal cutlets cloaked with breadcrumbs then plunged into seething hot butter. The lurid yellow risotto alla Milanese is also a must-try.
Via Gaetano de Castillia, 28, Milan
ratana.it

Nuovo Macello
Run by the same family since 1959, the restaurant’s meat supplier hasn’t changed in over 40 years. Here the veal Milanese is aged for 40 days, cut almost two-inches thick and served either on or off the bone. The bone-in cutlet is superior.
Via Cesare Lombroso, 20, Milan
trattoriadelnuovomacello.it

Pizza in Naples

AVPN-disapproved but very good pizza at 50 Kalò

In Naples, the art of pizza making is taken extremely seriously, and even governed by stringent rules. Established in 1984, the Verace Pizza Napoletana Association (AVPN) campaigns to implement laws in place to make sure traditional Neapolitan pizza is respected. For pizza to be considered truly Neapolitan, it must be cooked in a wood-fired oven, adhere to a certain depth, shape and diameter, and must have precise toppings sourced from specific areas. The cheese and oil (if using) even need to be distributed in a particular format. Dough should be rested for at least six hours, rolling pins are outlawed, and unconventional toppings are strictly prohibited. Purists argue only three types of Neapolitan pizza exist: marinara, simply topped with tomato sauce, garlic and oregano; margherita, made with basil, tomatoes and mozzarella from the southern Apennine mountains; and – best of all – the ‘extra margherita’, crowned with buffalo mozzarella from Campania.

Where to eat it:

L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele
When searching for L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele, look for the queue that almost always stretches out of the door. Don’t let the sprawl put you off, however – the pizzas are exemplary, inexpensive, and absolutely worth the wait.
Via Cesare Sersale, 1, Naples
facebook.com/damichele1870/

Pizzeria Brandi
Believed to be the oldest pizzeria in Naples, Pizzeria Brandi opened in 1780. The restaurant is also said to have invented the margherita in honour of Queen Margherita’s visit. Today, Pizzeria Brandi doesn’t necessarily serve the best pizza in Naples, but its historical significance makes a visit near-essential
Salita Sant’Anna di Palazzo, 1/2, Naples
brandi.it

50 Kalò
A little further out of the city centre, 50 Kalò is worth making a special trip for. A relative newcomer to the city’s pizza scene, having opened in 2014, 50 Kalò defies convention with some of its toppings, but the dough is made to a precise recipe using exceptional ingredients. Simply sublime.
Piazza Sannazaro, 201/B, Naples
50kalò.it

Burrata in Puglia

Burrata ravioli at Trattoria Pugliese. Burrata – god's own mozzarella

The southern region of Puglia is home to many great dishes and ingredients, but few have garnered the international appeal of burrata. Believed to have been invented during the 1920s, in the city of Andria, burrata was first made as a way of utilising waste left over in the cheesemaking process. The ‘pouch’ part of the cheese – filled with creamy strands of stracciatella and cream – was also made by blowing inside a mozzarella ball; a technique which has since become uncommon due to improved food hygiene standards. The result, however, is an inexplicably creamy cheese that’s as versatile as it is delicious. While burrata isn’t strictly a dish in its own right, the cheese is incorporated into many plates throughout the region.

Where to eat it:

Casa Sgarra
A modern restaurant in the town of Trani, Casa Sgarra is run by three brothers. Here the cuisine is typically Puglian, with ingredients such as burrata lovingly showcased across the menu, featuring in antipasti, mains and even sweet desserts. Anyone for burrata and tomato ice cream?
Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, 114, Trani
casasgarra.it

Trattoria Pugliese
Established in 1888, Trattoria Pugliese also champions the region’s traditional cuisine and ingredients. The burrata ravioli with borage, anchovies and sun-dried tomatoes is a no-brainer.
Via Concezione, 9, Gioia del Colle
facebook.com/trattoriapugliese.1888

‘The Four Pastas of Rome’ in Rome

Santo Palato's top-tier Carbonara / Image: RomediaStudio

With a gastronomic history stretching over 2,000 years, Roman cuisine has a commendably thrifty nature. Known for using all edible portions of both animals and plants, some sensational vegetable and offal dishes are on offer, though today the city is most internationally renowned for its four classic pastas. By far the most famous, spaghetti alla Carbonara has a rich sauce featuring an emulsification of eggs, Pecorino Romano cheese, black pepper and rendered guanciale (cured pig’s cheek). Pasta alla Gricia is made similarly, but without the eggs, as is pasta all’Amatriciana, which substitutes egg for tomatoes and just a whisper of chilli. Cacio e pepe, on the other hand, comprises a silky mess of melted Pecorino Romano and mounds of black pepper.

Where to eat them:

SantoPalato
A modern trattoria in Rome’s Appio-Latino quarter, Santo Palato is a 20 minute drive from the city centre. Roman peasant classics are celebrated with exceptional attention to detail, with the likes of exemplary Carbonara and Amatriciana joined by soft ribbons of trippa alla Romana enlivened with mint, and sweet dishes such as maritozzo – a cream-filled bun made with grano arso flour and green pepper.
Piazza Tarquinia, 4a/b, Rome
santopalato.superbexperience.com

Felice a Testaccio
The famous cacio e pepe at Felice in Rome’s Testaccio district is mixed tableside, marrying al dente tonnarelli with Pecorino Romano cheese and a bold helping of pepper. Spaghetti alla Carbonara, bucatini all’Amatricana and mezzemaniche alla Gricia are also available and worth ordering.
Via Mastro Giorgio, 29, Rome
feliceatestaccio.com

Malloreddus in Sardinia

Malloreddus alla campidanese is a go-to preparation / Image: Adobe Stock

The island of Sardinia is home to plenty of interesting regional specialties, including casu marzu (a cheese containing maggots that’s as delicious as it is eldritch), pane carasau flatbread, culurgiones – a deep-fried cousin to ravioli – and malloreddus. The most prepared traditional dish in Sardinia, malloreddus has been on local menus since ancient times. With similarities to gnocchi, it’s typically made with semolina flour and water, while just a pinch of saffron gives the dough its yellow hue. The pasta is also ridged with a fairly open groove, which collects plenty of sauce when used in dishes such as malloreddus alla campidanese, featuring a sauce of tomato and Sardinian sausage.

Where to eat it:

Pani e Casu
Offering outstanding views from its terrace, Pani e Casu serves an exemplary version of the classic malloreddus alla campidanese. Additional highlights include culurgiones and porcheddu (suckling pig).
Via Santa Croce, 51, Cagliari
facebook.com/PaniECasu

Corso Dodici
Close to Cagliari city centre, Corso Dodici celebrates Sardinian classics. Here the malloreddus dish substitutes sausage and tomato for basil pesto and green beans, served alongside tuna tartare.
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 12, Cagliari
corsododici.it

Cannoli in Sicily

A sizeable cannoli at Antica Dolceria Bonajuto

Besides tiramisu, cannoli is one of Italy’s most internationally recognised desserts. Having originated in the 9th century, while Sicily was under Arab rule, the crisp tunnels of fried pastry are piped with ricotta cheese. Today they’re typically embellished with cocoa, animal fat and Marsala wine, while the cheese is often bolstered by orange blossom water, chocolate, candied orange peel or chopped pistachio nuts. More recently, the dish has also become synonymous with carnival season, typically prepared by nuns at monasteries in Palermo. Available in countless bakeries and restaurants, the best examples of cannoli are filled just before eating, which prevents the pastry from becoming soggy.

Where to eat it:

Antica Dolceria Bonajuto
Whole sheep’s milk ricotta is favoured in the north of Sicily, cow’s milk ricotta is preferred in the south – as is showcased here. The result is a smooth, refined filling worth making a special trip for.
Corso Umberto I, 159, Modica
bonajuto.it

Pasticceria Savia
Historic Pasticceria Savia serves superlative cannoli stuffed with ricotta and pistachio. The arancini and cassata are also wizard.
Via Etnea, 302/304, Catania
lnx.savia.it

Fassona Beef in Turin

Raw fassona beef with truffles – none more Piedmont / Image: Alamy

The region of Piedmont is renowned for producing some of the best wines in Italy, namely Barolo and Barbaresco. Naturally, these wines pair extremely well with Fassona beef – a world-renowned breed, also from Piedmont. For centuries, Fassona cattle has been used for both dairy and labour, with female cows typically used for beef as the testosterone in males can make the flesh a tad tough. Grass-fed and with huge, well-exercised muscles from roaming the region’s foothills, Fassona beef steaks have outstanding flavour, with a slight sweetness and fat like butter. Fassona fillet steaks are available, but it’s worth opting for something with a highr fat content, such as a classic Fiorentina (T-bone) or costata (bone-in ribeye).

Where to eat it:

Bifrò
The Fassona beef at Bifrò is dry-aged, with pronounced softness and depth of flavour, all showcased in well-stocked refrigerators. A good number of breeds from around the world are available, but the Fassona is a must-try.
Strada Val Salice, 2, Turin
bifroit.wixsite.com/bifro

Bigoli in Salsa, in Venice

Bigoli alla Veneta, also called bigoli in salsa / Image: Adobe Stock

As is also the case with Rome, eating well in Venice can be difficult without some pre-planning. The canal city is one of the most popular destinations in the world for tourists, and as such many of the restaurants near tourist attractions are frankly terrible. The city and its surrounding region is home to some exceptional food, however, with plenty of focus on seafood and regionally-specific pasta dishes. Bigoli, for instance, is a Venetian classic. The long, thick strands of extruded pasta are commonly used as the base for bigoli in salsa – teamed with a sauce of onion and anchovies or sardines. Like the four pastas of Rome, bigoli in salsa is a relatively simple dish with a short cooking time, yet it’s far greater than the sum of its parts.

Where to eat it:

Cà d’Oro alla Vedova
A classic Italian trattoria, the charming restaurant’s bigoli in salsa comprises al dente bigoli slick with olive oil and loaded with fried onions and anchovies. It’s worth noting that Cà d’Oro alla Vedova’s polpettone (meatballs) are also particularly famous and worth trying.
Ramo Ca’ d’Oro, 3912, Venice
facebook.com/allavedova

Osteria Al Bacareto
Championing typical Venetian dishes, Osteria Al Bacareto’s classic bigoli in salsa features salted sardines. The restaurant is also worth visiting for lunch, while open as a bar serving drinks and traditional cicchetti.
Campo San Samuele, 3447, Venice
bacareto.it

Risotto All’Amarone in Verona

Depp hues and flavours reign in Risotto All’Amarone

One of the principle wine towns of the Veneto region, Verona’s food is typically robust to match the excellent wines produced. The wines are also used in a number of dishes, including risotto all’Amarone. Prepared with ingredients sourced from the local area, risotto all’Amarone comprises Vialone Nano rice, Monte Veronese cheese and Amarone della Valpolicella. The latter is the region’s most powerful red wine, made with grapes dried for 3-4 months before fermentation, giving the dish a bold flavour and deep purple hew.

Where to eat it:

Osteria Caffè Monte Baldo
On a back street behind Piazza delle Erbe, family-run Osteria Caffé Mondte Baldo has been open since 1909. Dishes such as risotto all’Amarone are executed simply, but are benchmark versions of Veronese classics.
Via Rosa, 12, Verona
facebook.com/osteriamontebaldo/

Tre Marchetti
Specialising in hearty, traditional dishes, Tre Marchetti’s menu describes the risotto section as ‘la nostra passione’ (‘our passion’). The restaurant’s famous risotto all’Amarone is available to be shared between two people, lavished with squash and (not strictly necessary) 24-carat gold leaf.
Via Tre Marchetti, 19, Verona
tremarchetti.com

Caffè Dante Bistrot
Founded in 1837, Caffè Dante offers high end Veronese food. For something a little different, the risotto all’Amarone served here is topped with a ‘drunk’ cheese ice cream.
P.za dei Signori, 2, Verona
caffedante.it