For centuries, Milan had a complex system of aquatic arteries, built in the 12th century and which carved through town to improve trade routes in and out of the city for resident merchants, connecting the metropolis with rivers around the Po Valley. Essentially, all that remains are the two that bookend Navigli: Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese.
These lengthy canals roll into south-central Milan and terminate at the basin and former dock, Darsena. The wedge-shaped neighbourhood that formed between the two, Navigli, literally means the ‘canals’. No points for originality but many for ambience. These waterways were rundown for decades, but brought back to life in 2015, redeveloped in time for Milan’s hosting of the World Expo.
Now full of tasteful renovations and colourful courtyard houses, Navigli is the place to go for some of the best bars, cafés and restaurants in the city. The neighbourhood is also home to two large art schools, precursors to the area’s subsequent boom in contemporary art spaces. Coupled with hip artisanal stores, boutique hotels, and a brilliant Sunday antique market, Navigli has emerged as one of the more vibrant corners of Italy’s largest city.
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Munching
An impressionistic dish at Nebbia / Image: Simone Fiorini
Dining at Nebbia is an intimate affair; the dinky yet swish space serves modern versions of Italian favourites, with enticing starters, homemade pastas and excellent fish on the menu. Just around the corner, much loved Osteria Conchetta is an enjoyable contrast; a classic Italian osteria serving traditional Lombardian dishes of the highest calibre – you’ve never had risotto this good.
Across the ‘hood, Belé Ristorante is an elegant joint with a seasonal menu of organic, locally sourced fare, though their green and fresh plates are impressive, no matter the season. Finally, if you dig gnocchi (who doesn’t?) then Osteria del Gnocco Fritto is unmissable; the veteran trattoria specialises in the dinky dumplings, as well as sublime tortellini and the best charcuterie boards in the area.
Browsing
Grab some well-worn but wicked threads at Sous
Navigli is bustling with creative types, so a bevy of vintage stores have inevitably popped up in the area. Pourquoi Moi is a great start, stocking finely cut threads from across the decades. They’re high-end, but if you value retro garms, it’s a gold mine. Less haute but just as well curated, Sous Vintage Shop is a more affordable pitstop to rake through.
Homeware-lovers rejoice, Italy’s design capital comes up trumps in every corner and Ecliss Milano is a stellar furniture store, hawking pieces that dazzle. Crucially, try and aim for a Navigli visit on the last Sunday of each month, to catch the excellent antique market that lines the banks of Naviglio Grande.
