As with so many of today’s up-and-coming hipster neighbourhoods, Poblenou was once the industrial centre of the city. In fact, it was the heart of the whole of Catalonia’s industrial boom, particularly the textile sector, earning it the nickname ‘the Catalan Manchester’. Today, its former factories and warehouses are home to design ateliers, co-working spaces, and art studios, while third-wave coffee shops, cool bars and restaurants continue to pop up around them as the barrio is revitalised.
This regeneration is not only down to the cheaper rents available to impoverished creatives, but also thanks to a pointed strategy from the City Council, the 22@ Plan, which aims to entice technology and creative companies to the area. Although still in progress, it has certainly succeeded at making it a modern design hub, even attracting schools such as design college BAU and FX Animation 3D and film school to set up here.
Happily, plenty of the traditional Catalonian buildings, businesses and spirit remain in the neighbourhood, which runs from Plaça de les Glòries down to the beach, making Poblenou a delightful mix of old and new.
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MUNCHING
A none-more Antipodean dish at the NZ-inspired Little Fern
Poblenou has all the foodie requisites that a neighbourhood of this kind needs. For brunch, there’s Little Fern, an airy, minimalistic café that serves Kiwi-style fare, such as sweetcorn fritters with smashed avo, plus other inventive brunch dishes. Make sure to try the salted caramel croissant pudding.
Three Marks Coffee is the third gen coffee shop fuelling Poblenou’s creatives. Don’t ask for syrups here – you’ll be told the coffee is of such good quality you don’t need anything else with it (except, maybe, a slice of their lemon cake on the side). To be fair, they’re right.
Vegans should run not walk to vegan cheese factory Väcka at Nest City Lab, an urban lab for sustainability. Keep an eye on their Instagram (@vacka42) to see when they’re offering tastings of their dairy-free delights.
Finish off a day with a meal at Barriteca. It’s a small, paired-back spot that serves a changing menu of tapas from the region, such as Trinxat de la Cerdanya (a bit like a Catalan bubble and squeak) and piquillo peppers stuffed with cod brandade. It’s owned by a man called Pep Miró, who has worked with some of the world’s best chefs, and always puts his special spin on each dish. No wonder the bravas here are considered by many to be the best in Barcelona.
BROWSING
An aerial shot of Els Encants flea market / Credit: Victoria Beardwood
Of course there’s a Zara and a Mango nearby, but this neighbourhood has great Spanish shops that you can’t find anywhere else. Els Encants flea market, for example, is one of the oldest in Europe and is a great place to go rummaging. It’s open on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, between 9am and 8pm, and has everything from vintage lamps and furniture to second-hand jewellery and clothes (including real leather jackets for €5 a piece). If you’re willing to look past the odd box of doll heads and piles of random toiletries, you’ll likely find some real gems.
Equally eclectic – though in a much more curated way – is Unusual* Concept Store, which sells beautifully designed shoes, homeware, clothes and paintings.
