Sutton & Sons, Islington
Plumping for the classics at Sutton & Sons / Image: Sutton & Sons
They had us at the branding – just look at that logo, emblazoned on a retro wooden chip fork. You know what you’re getting here. Tracing its roots back to Stoke Newington fishmonger Danny Sutton, who started frying up his catch of the day in 1998, this sprawling chippy empire now has outlets in Hackney and this, an upscale spot on Islington’s Essex Road. In addition to the standard fare, get a load of specials running the gamut from chargrilled sea bass to grilled oysters, or a lavish lobster sub.
356 Essex Road, N1 3PD
suttonandsons.co.uk
Golden Union, Soho
Don’t be put off by the diner-style glossy tiles and neon signage. This gleaming restaurant on Soho’s Poland Street is the real McCoy, with great hunks of flaky cod – carefully sourced and traceable back to the boat that caught it – rubbing fins with plant-based vegan cutlets and secret-recipe tartare sauce. If you’ve ever wondered about saveloys, those rather obscene, long red sausage things, this is a perfect place to give them a whirl. Thank us later.
38 Poland Street, W1F 7LY
goldenunion.co.uk
The Fryer's Delight, Holborn
No frills heaven at this Holborn stalwart
This Holborn institution is beloved of cabbies and other colourful cockney characters. As such, don’t expect too much in the way of frills, fancy condiments or sustainable goody-two-shoes touches. What’s that taste? Beef dripping, which infuses the chunky old-school chips and irresistibly crunchy batter. It’s an authentic spot, is what we’re saying, from the tatty 1960s furniture to the astounding signage and grizzled staff. Absolutely banging cod, too.
19 Theobalds Road, WC1X 8SL
facebook.com/fishandchips.co.
Toff's, Muswell Hill
A proper London chip shop, Toff’s has been satiating the peckish denizens of leafy Muswell Hill for decades under the able stewardship of the Georgiou family. Freshly spruced inside, Toff’s nevertheless keeps the menu largely traditional, with groundnut-fried chips and big hearty chunks of fish. Not that they’re averse to a bit of experimentation – if you’re dining in, plump for the home-made semifreddo, a kind of Italian ice cream cake. Bellissimo.
38 Muswell Hill Broadway, N10 3RT
toffsfish.co.uk
Kerridge’s Fish & Chips, Knightsbridge
Grilled lobster is available for the batter-averse at Kerridge’s Fish & Chips
Michelin-starred culinary bigwig Tom Kerridge has set up a high-end, high-priced chip shop in iconic Knightsbridge department store Harrods. What do you get for your eye-watering £35 outlay? Well, there’s the triple-cooked chips – that apparently take two days to make – shimmering with savoury flakes of sea salt. And flaky, ethically-caught and handpicked fish served in Kerridge’s signature light, gluten-free batter. There’s plenty of fun stuff beyond that – think deep-fried cockle popcorn, native lobster Thermidor, or caviar and crème fraiche as a side. Served in newspaper it ain’t.
Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, SW1X 7XL
tomkerridge.com/restaurants/kerridges-fis
Seventeen Fish & Chips, Balham
This easy-on-the-eye Balham spot pulls off the nifty balancing act of being really quite old-school in its flavoursome fried headliners, yet also rocking a contemporary hipster ambience. What does that mean? It looks fab, with gleaming alabaster tiles, distressed wood benches and pendulous Edison lightbulbs. And it tastes authentic – anybody who grew up in London will enjoy a Proustian rush at the herby fishcake aroma inside. And it’s licensed, so you can have a nice beer while you’re reminiscing.
17 Chestnut Grove, SW12 8JA
instagram.com/seventeenfishandchips/?hl=en
Seashell of Lisson Grove, Marylebone
Gleaming seafood and burnished chips at a Marylebone classic
There’s been a chippy of some description on this spot since the First World War. Assorted changes of management and an ugly fire in 2009 could’ve sunk the operation, but generations of devoted fried food stans have kept it going. Today it’s a faintly upmarket restaurant with a swooping central Art Deco bar and lots of moody subaquatic sculptures. It’s unashamedly trad, with subtle notes of modernity creeping into the pinky-breadcrumbed batter. Pricey, but worth shelling out.
49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH
seashellrestaurant.co.uk
Fish Lounge, Brixton
For a warm welcome and frankly ludicrous portions this discreet Brixton hideaway is hard to top. Classic staples – your haddocks, your sausages in batter – rub crispy shoulders with spicy neighbourhood faves like masala fish and southern fried chicken. The seating bit out back is cosy enough for a semi-fancy dinner, and the chatty staff are full of local goss and strong views about the football. For a taste of real London, this is the plaice.
99 Brixton Hill, SW2 1AA
facebook.com/fishloun