Stepping into Brussels’ Grand Place feels like going back in time. One of Europe’s most opulent city squares, it has a touch of the fairy tale about it: the centuries-old buildings are gilded with pristine gold leaf, the façades glinting in the wintry afternoon sun. Atop them, of course, are a few raggedy pigeons, happily turning the gold white with droppings. Originally a medieval marketplace, the Grand Place’s historic guild houses came later, opening as trade bodies and meeting places for carpenters, brewers and other tradesmen. Walking its perimeter is like tracing the beginnings of the modern, mercantile Belgium.
In addition to chocolate, Trappist beer and their golden generation of top-flight footballers, the Belgians are renowned for another, lesser-discussed export: they breed pigeons. These are elite birds – as far removed from their scruffy Brussels cousins as Lionel Messi is from a Sunday league footballer. In the midst of renewed interest in the ancient sport, I’ve come to find out what makes these modern pigeon racers tick. And, given the huge sums of money that change hands for their elite fliers, discover the secret to their success.
Pigeons take to the air in the rural Belgian town of Knessalare
It all started nearly two centuries ago, in the pigeon lofts of Belgium’s north-easterly Liège region. In the early 19th century, breeders there matched together birds whose offspring boasted the two characteristics key to successful racing pigeons: homing ability and speed. In races then as now, the pigeons would be released miles away and would have to beat the competition home, which these new avian champions did with ease. Their abilities were so pronounced, in fact, they were distinguished as a new breed, dubbed ‘Smerles’ in their home country, or in Britain, as ‘Antwerps’ – the Belgian city a byword for the nation from which they famously originated.
The feathered friends in their house
In Belgium and its neighbouring countries, the popularity of pigeon sport has declined since those glory days and is now the preserve of mostly older citizens. But, outside of its northern European heartland, it’s being taken up by legions of new fans, in countries such as Bulgaria, Slovenia and China. For the dedicated few who have kept the tradition alive, this has meant fresh opportunities, as those aspiring newcomers turn to Belgium for its expertise and its birds. A case in point: the sale last year of racing pigeon Armando, the ‘Lewis Hamilton of pigeons’, to a Chinese buyer for a record-breaking sum of €1.25m.