Cafe Gammeltorv
An avocado-laden smørrebrød at Cafe Gammeltorv / Image: Dennis Frandsen
A wonderfully welcoming town centre mainstay, where their particular version of the Stjerneskud (’shooting stars’) dish, an all-time smørrebrød mainstay (that’s also for the famished and on a controlled budget), needs to be sampled. For the uninitiated, it’s a fried plaice fillet, with pickled asparagus, hand-peeled prawns and a steamed white wine sauce on sourdough. Then nail the unctuously filthy deep fried camembert if you can cope with anything else. An extra snaps usually aids.
Gammeltorv 20, Inner City
cafegammeltorv.dk
Told & Snaps
Head to Toldbogade and down some dinky stairs – into a dark-wood-panelled snug of candles and homemade aquavits – for one of the cosiest lunches Copenhagen has to offer. The portraits of Danish royals are charming; the service is utterly gregarious; the honey-coloured liquors punchy AF. As for food, the Icelandic smoked salmon on rye, with sinus-stripping fresh horseradish, is served unfussily and at one of the best prices you’ll find in the inner city. The roast pork with apple is perfection, too.
Toldbodgade 2, Inner City
toldogsnaps.dk
Sans Souci
Sans Souci's painting-festooned interiors are highly cosy
Est. 1902, Sans Souci remains a charmed must-visit. What becomes a French bistro by night is the perfect Frederiksberg smørrebrød stop-off point by day, serving all the classics (order the Parisian steak on toast and rhubarb trifle) in a dark, womblike room that’s elegant, cosy and a cute hideaway from the bustle of Gammel Kongvej (hell, the painting collection alone is worth a visit). Afterwards, swing by the famous Frederiksburg Have gardens – from which you can eyeball the elephants in the neighbouring city zoo.
Madvigs Allé 15, Frederiksberg
sanssouci.dk
Kompasset
Kompasset: great sammies. even better snaps
The home-brewed aquavit collection at this Nyhavn gem is to die for. From sea buckthorn or dill to willow catkin and bog myrtle, there’s a flavour to suit each and every palate (and dish). In fact, the snaps are a fundamental part of the restaurant’s history – it has its very own brewer, 72-year-old Rigmor, who’s made the aquavit in a nearby basement for over three decades, in collaboration with a bevvy of Danish gatherers that provide her with the idiosyncratic, seasonal herbs and spices. The sandwiches – the ‘Schrimp’, of buttered toast, lobster cream and fennel, say; or one with fried turbot, trout roe and gooseberries – are fab too.
Nyhavn 65, Inner City
restaurantkompasset.dk
Schønnemann
Schønnemann is the spot for the city's most classical refined trad fare
For top-tier traditional fare – from which, if you’re also on the 100 or so aquavits behind the bar, you won’t be able to leave walking in a straight line – Schønnemann is a no-brainer. This is the place to opt for classic smørrebrød like smoked eel with egg and chives, or potato with smoked mayo on seeded rye. Smørrebrød experiences really range from casual to high-end; this is a place for Sunday best and a well-shined shoe. Expect champion service from the equally dapper waiting staff.
Hauser Pl. 16, Inner City
restaurantschonnemann.dk
Lumskebugten
Lumskebugten has been a sanctuary for bawdy locals and visiting gastronomes for eons / Image: Henrik Saxgreen
Since 1854, this low-ceilinged dining room has been a sanctuary for rambunctious locals, returning sailors, wartime hideaways and even a Russian bear. You’ll have to visit to unlock these mysteries, but we can only assume they were all there for the spiced Christiansø herring, served with duck lard laced with prawns (or perhaps one of the many vegetarian options including a sublime avocado salad). Glass vases are adorned with strangely beautiful submerged cabbages in lieu of flowers, and the service is second to none.
Esplanaden 21, Inner City
lumskebugten.dk
Møntergade
Modern smørrebrød at this slick contemporary classic / Image: Jonas Buhr
A bustling, top tier go-to for hearty, heavy classics served with gourmet resonance. It’s worth booking ahead for the brilliance of Møntergade; and maybe saving a little, too (though the 495kr set menu is well worth it). This place is more brightly lit and modern than some, and a fine place to spot some of CPH’s food-world glitterati – off-the-clock star chefs and foodies from all corners of the city rub shoulders over draught beers and copious snaps to accompany the culinary goodness.
Møntergade 19, Inner City
montergade.dk
Palægade 2
A view of the kitchen at Palægade 2 / Image: Jonas Buhr/Restaurant Palægade
Palægade is the v2 of Copenhagen’s original, famed traditional Danish dining room – and it’s more understatedly wonderful than ever. Elegance is threaded through each and every element of lunch here, from the palazzo floors and stained glass geometric screens to the modernised takes on traditional classics and well-curated natural wine selections. Opt for spiced herring with rosehip, pickled rhubarb and crème fraiche for your first chomp, the yellowtail tuna with pickled tomatoes and Mexican oregano for your second, and the fried raw milk camembert with blackcurrant compote to finish.
Palægade 8, Inner City
formelfamily.dk/palaegade
