Majorca
Even the escargot averse should find something to enjoy in Majorca
Tapas is the most famed style of Spanish cooking – and it really comes alive in Majorca, where the island’s brilliant ingredients are the star of the show. Majorca’s temperate climate, nutrient-dense soil and ancient agriculture mean that this area knocks out some of the best produce in the region. As the largest of the Balearics, its sprawling landmass means that hyper-regional dishes have developed between the inland mountainous and the coast. As with each of these islands, the cuisine has been shaped by centuries of Roman, Moorish and Aragonese rule. The island also had a large Jewish community up until the 1500s, which left its mark with many of the island’s signature dishes – like ensaïmada, a light and flaky bread often filled with almond nougat and dusted with icing sugar.
What: Majorcan escargot
Tried snails? Desperately averse? Majorca is the place to give them another whirl. Largely found in the Serra de Tramuntana mountains, they have been a delicacy here for centuries. When sautéed into a rich broth with island-best ingredients like spicy sobrasada sausage, wild fennel, mint and oregano, and plenty of white wine, they’re a true taste of Majorca. As one of the best wine regions in Spain, a glass of something featuring the local grape variety, prensal blanc, is a must.
Where: Santa Catalina Market
Santa Catalina Market, in the capital, Palma de Majorca, is the place to head if you want to snaffle the whole cornucopia of Ibiza’s foodie offering. It’s home to countless tapas bars, fruit sellers, fishmongers and more. Head to Bar Joan Frau to chow down on the classic frito mallorquín (a hash of cuttlefish or lamb offal), mallorquín soups or paella, while sampling glasses of local wine to match.
Formentera
An, er, eldritch display of peix sec, dried fish / Image: Adobe Stock
At just over 12 miles in length, Formentera is the smallest of the Balearics – but it might also be the most breathtaking. It has one of the most interesting gastronomical scenes in the region, to boot. Seafood is the standout in all of the island’s signature dishes – from frit de polpo (fried octopus) to fish stew and simply grilled rock lobsters, all caught off the port in La Savina. The fig and almond trees that adorn the island aren’t just beautiful, though – they also provide the fruit that features across most menus in Formentera’s cafés and restaurants. Compared to neighbouring Ibiza, authentic cooking is easier to find here and with over 80 hectares of vineyards, trying the local boozy varietals is essential to truly experience all the island has to offer.
What: peix sec (dried fish)
One of the island’s most ancient culinary traditions is peix sec, or dried fish. The sight of small stingrays dessicating in the sunshine and sea breeze, after being salted and hung from the branches of juniper trees, is a scene quintessential to Formentera. It’s a huge part of the island’s culture; hundreds of years ago, the fish were often traded as currency. It’s the base of the famed ensalada payesa, a salad made with potatoes, tomatoes and the baked and crumbled dried fish. A must-try.
Where: Juan y Andrea Restaurant
On the sun-baked sands of Playa Illettes – one of Formentera’s most beautiful beaches – you’ll find Juan y Andrea Restaurant. Amble up the boardwalk from the shore for some of the best local cooking on the island. Open since 1971, it serves prawns caught just off the coast, simply chargrilled with lemon, and huge platters of paella topped with the day’s shellfish catch. Lunch doesn’t come much more idyllic.