It often gets referred to as the Hackney of Edinburgh, but plenty would argue that Leith outstrips its London equivalent – it’s regularly ranked as one of the world’s coolest spots, and with good reason.
This town-within-a-city on Edinburgh’s northernmost fringe (it officially became part of the metropolis in 1920) used to be Scotland’s main port, but as with so many former industrial powerhouses the decline of sea trade left a void – Irvine Welsh’s 1993 novel Trainspotting and the subsequent film starring Ewan McGregor made the area synonymous with deprivation.
But that’s all in the past, and today it’s a haven of brewery taprooms, independent shops and brilliant places to eat and drink, thanks to various regeneration projects and an influx of young professionals and families who are by and large sensitive to and respectful of the area’s history.
So, why should you choose Leith? Read on to find out.
After even more in-depth eating deets? These are the places where Leith’s gastro godhead Roberta Hall-McCarron likes to eat best.
Oh, and these are the best things to do in Edinburgh generally.
Munching
Oysters at Eleanore / Image: Amelia Claudia
Leith is now well and truly on the foodie map, and chef Roberta Hall-McCarron to put it there. Her newest venture is Eleanore, occupying the space that was formerly home to The Little Chartroom, which just moved to Bonnington Road. Expect a pared-back selection of seasonal small plates inspired by Hall-McCarron’s childhood on the coast (oysters are never off the menu) with the fun, countertop dining feel of a wine bar.
For an unbeatable lunch stop, Alby’s on Portland Terrace has eye-popping sandwiches (think Coronation chicken katsu and so on) ‘and other wee bits’ like prawn toast to have on the side. Continuing on the dough theme, Bross Bagels in Leith Arches, which serves them Montreal-style, is fast becoming an Edinburgh leg
Browsing
Old-school vittles at Valvona & Crolla / Image: Valvona and Crolla
You won’t find any of the soulless chain stores that line Princes Street here: Leith is an independently minded shopper’s paradise. On Coburg Street, Coburg House is a handsome former granary that’s home to the studios of some 80 local makers: alongside a gallery and exhibition space there’s a shop full of wares fashioned mere metres away, from silver goods to one-of-a-kind prints.
For lovers of antipasti and fine Italian wines, Valvona & Crolla, Scotland’s oldest delicatessen (it was founded in 1934), is a must-visit just off Leith Walk. And of course, there’s a brilliant independent bookshop: Tardis-like Typewronger Books, on Haddington Place (as the name suggests, they also repair typewriters).
