Entering 2022 with a hankering for noods? Get some hot udon action at Koya Ko in London Fields.
If these don’t spin your propeller, simply take a gander at our list of the best restaurants in London.
Not many London restaurants come with views like Fenchurch's
FEELING ABSOLUTELY STINKING RAVENOUS? THEN JOIN US AS WE CHOMP OUR WAY THROUGH LONDON’S HOTTEST NEW RESTAURANTS, ONE GLORIOUS OPENING AT A TIME. THIS WEEK, FINE DINING IN THE SKY WITH A MICHELIN-APPROVED CHEF
Words by Charlie Gunn
Not many London restaurants come with views like Fenchurch's
Entering 2022 with a hankering for noods? Get some hot udon action at Koya Ko in London Fields.
If these don’t spin your propeller, simply take a gander at our list of the best restaurants in London.
London’s not exactly short of a rooftop or two – but you’d be hard-pressed to find one with a better view than Sky Garden (aka the divisive, car-melting ‘Walkie Talkie’ building). If you’re in the market for some fancy fare while you’re sky high, you’re in luck – fine dining establishment Fenchurch, located 37 floors up, now boasts a new head chef, Michael Carr – formerly of Great British Menu and Michelin-starred The Box Tree in Yorkshire – who’s reimagined their seven-course tasting menus to create a truly elevated dining experience.
This is serious dining; inventive, imaginative and incredibly tasty. The portion sizes are just right, too. If you’re new to fine dining, these aren’t the kind of small plates that will leave you feeling like you need a bag of chips on the way home.
Carr could give a masterclass in presentation: Isle of Skye scallops are served in shell, with a punchy XO sauce and imprisoned by a tuille lattice; while salt-dried duck is immaculately placed alongside its accompaniments of braised red cabbage and chestnut purée.
The vibe inside is low-lit, with leather seats and, at just 60 covers, more subdued than the raucous bar and live music area in Sky Garden’s main concourse below. With immaculately expansive views of London, it’s definitely one for a special occasion.
While there is an à la carte, we’d recommend the tasting menus – there’s one for vegetarians and one for carnivores. It’s all thrilling – we knew we were in for a ride when the bread course came with a velvety smooth Marmite butter.
The pan-fried halibut with bacon and a curry sauce was a particular highlight – a really good-looking plate with flavours to match.
We also loved the well-overdue reimagining of the hash brown. Covered with toasted seeds and served with hen of the wood mushroom and a teriyaki glaze, it’s a dish that puts Aunt Bessie to shame.
For something sweet, the Fenchurch chocolate bar with salted almond and buttermilk ice cream is a heady closer, if you’ve got any room left.
For inventive fine dining in a one-of-a-kind setting – it’s the perfect fancy London night out.
££££
1 Sky Garden Walk, London, EC3M 8AF
skygarden.london/restaurants/fenchurch/
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