Review: The Laundry, Brixton

What's the deal?

This ex-wash house has been totally revamped within

Choosing where to while away your Sunday is a critical decision for any Londoner. A sacred time between post-steam-blowing-debauchery and pre-back-to-work-buttoning up, the day’s backdrop needs to be equal parts entertaining and chill. Many have tried, many have failed to generate the requisite atmosphere, but a worthy contender south of the river is The Laundry in Brixton.  

The all-day dining spot and wine bar is housed inside Walton Lodge, a family-owned laundry business that ran for close to 120 years. As well as the name, the interior references its days as a local wash house with original artworks and books, exposed Edwardian brick and a laundry price list proudly displayed near the door.  

Any other references to its former life have been scrubbed away and replaced with mint green banquettes, white marble and cast iron bistro tables, and dark brown leather upholstery – the perfect surrounds for unwinding urbanites to enjoy a reviving brunch or devour a roast dinner.  

With a Kiwi owner and Aussie head chef, The Laundry has an Antipodean bent that extends to the menu. Dishes include boiled eggs with vegemite soldiers, toasted banana bread slathered in honeycomb butter, and cavolo nero with pepita pesto rigatoni and pangrattato (bread crumbs).  

Any visit isn’t complete without a glass of wine from a list carefully curated by owner Melanie Brown. For the vino averse, the house cocktails are particularly inspired. The passionfruit gimlet, made with Brixton Gin, keeps things local, while the current special – a kiwi mojito – is fresh and citrusy. 

What should I eat?

Yorkshire puds get top billing at Sunday lunch

Here for brunch? You’d be remiss not to get the banana bread. Even those who swore off it following a lockdown overload will be glad they ended their moratorium when this thick slice is plonked on their table. Served warm, wait until the melty honeycomb butter has oozed into the grill marks. 

But there’s really no better way to end a week than with a Sunday roast. And The Laundry has brought back its offering just in time for the colder months. Despite the restaurant’s affiliation to the Southern Hemisphere, this is an altogether British affair – the only outlier being soft and squishy roasted kumara (New Zealand sweet potato). The spatchcock chicken with honey-mustard bread sauce is a triumph for two, while the eight-day-aged roast Hereford sirloin is served perfectly pink and juicy. Meats come piled atop Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes, seasonal squash and minted peas and, most importantly, you can ask for seconds of the trimmings.  

Your roast will not be complete, however, without ordering the ultimate cauliflower cheese. Tender florets in a rich and creamy sauce, topped with a sage and truffle gratin for some added crunch.  

Why should I go?

Pass the chicken, please

Two words: bottomless gravy.  

££££
374 Coldharbour Ln, London SW9 8PL
thelaundrybrixton.com