In retrospect, it was a poor decision to visit the Fagradalsfjall volcano at night.
The 3km hike up an adjacent mountain had been uneventful, if physically laborious. Fagradalsfjall is located close to Grindavik, on the Reykjanes Peninsula, about an hour’s drive from Reykjavik. The landscape here is eerie and beautiful and sparsely populated; wafts of sulphur leak from volcanic hot springs. Arriving for the hike, I was glad of the small mobile van in the car park, selling hot drinks and snacks.
That’s south Iceland ticked – so it’s time to set your eyes on the north. And there’s no better way experience it than by driving the Arctic Coast Way.
Hot pools, cool food, explosive landscapes… whatever your preference, Iceland needs to be your next mini-break.
The sun sets over the otherworldly landscape near Fagradalsfjall, Geldingardalir / Image: Adobe Stock
The best view of the active volcano, which began erupting on 19 March 2021, is from a nearby hiking trail. Since Fagradalsfjall began roaring, locals and tourists have decamped en masse to watch the volcano. For a while, in the early days of the eruption, there was a party feel: people drank alcohol, listened to music, and fried eggs on the lava fields. There were fashion photoshoots, and even a wedding.
The glowing cone of Fagradalsfjall / Image: Adobe Stock
Iceland is, famously, a land of fire and ice. There are approximately 30 active volcanic systems on the island, which are responsible for Iceland’s famous hot springs, lava caves and explosive geysers. Prior to March 2021, the most recent volcanic event was at Eyjafjallajökull in April 2010. It spewed a massive ash cloud that grounded European aviation for six days, causing the highest level of air travel disruption since the Second World War.
Luckily, Fagradalsfjall is an effusive, rather than an eruptive volcano, meaning that lava leaks out of the earth, rather than exploding in an enormous ash cloud that could, once again, scupper the flight networks of Europe. Even more fortunately, Fagradalsfjall is not near any major towns or settlements, although some roads may be cut off by lava flows if the volcanic activity doesn’t subside. But the remote location makes it a perilous visit, particularly in winter, when Iceland’s weather can turn in an instant, leaving hikers stranded in inclement weather many miles from civilisation (and rescue services.)