With its labyrinthine canal network, rows of lofty houses, fabled coffee shops and army of cyclists, Amsterdam oozes character – not least in the winter months, when the city is ablaze with fairy lights (and often a dusting of snow), skaters zig-zag along the canals, and the outdoor markets come alive. Oh, and a wealth of hearty Dutch culinary treats (from hot doughnuts to Dutch sausages) offer comfort on chilly days and nights. Here’s our guide to it all.
Need to flesh out your itinerary with a few more classic city experiences? Here’s our guide to the best things to do in Amsterdam.
You’ll want to get your jenever fix and here’s where to do it: the best ‘brown cafés’ in Amsterdam.
Deep-fried dough balls at Hartog’s Volkoren
What to eat: Literally translating as ‘oil balls’, oliebollen are much more appetising than they sound. Basically deep-fried dough balls, they are thought to be the inspiration for doughnuts, and are traditionally eaten on New Year’s Eve in Holland. Visit Hartog’s Volkoren on Wibautstraat 77, one of the best bakers knocking out the delicacy, or pick some up from one of several street vendors. Oliebollen will warm your cockles on a Baltic winter’s day.
The beautiful brown wash of Café de Dokter / Image: Tim Collins
What to drink: Visit Café de Dokter to sample the Dutch spirit jenever. It’s widely believed to be the precursor to gin, as well as the inspiration for the phrase ‘Dutch courage’ (British troops fighting Louis XIV reportedly appreciated its calming effects before going into battle). The tiny Dickensian café, hidden down the narrow Rozenboomsteeg alley, is a dark and cosy hideaway where punters shelter from the elements and warm up with a stiff pour to the strains of jazz.
